My first visit to the Chilika Lake in Jan 2017 was for content for a resort. It was peak season, and I would have loved to stay near the lake, but the brief was to stay at Puri and cover areas that could be visited from Puri. And so, I did the usual touristy thing, taking a boat for half the day. Which is why, on my next visit to Odisha, if there was one thing I was clear about, it was that I wanted to stay near the lake, at least for a day, if not more. However, unlike my first visit, the second was in end of May, and the season was long ended. There would be no birds, I was warned by anyone and everyone I spoke to, including the people at the stays I was considering. But those who know me, know how stubborn I can be, and so I persisted. I eventually decided to stay at two of the Odisha eco-tourism resorts, at Mangalajodi and Rajhans, keen on experiencing the lake, even minus the birds. I had expected it to be hot, but as it turned out, the rains turned out to be even bigger spoilspo...
Returning from the Ellora caves, as the car navigated the
twists and turns over the mountains, the ramparts of the fort came into view
every now and then. A stretch of plain land surrounded by mountains, a
perfectly conical hill in the centre, surmounted by a fort, a white structure
gleaming in the sun, a tall tower at the
foothills rendering the scene perfect, its bright red colour a stark contrast
to the brown that enveloped the fort. The Daulatabad fort was an inviting
sight, even from a distance. However, it wasn’t the fort itself, but its story,
that drew me to the place, which made me insist on a quick visit, in spite of
the short time we had on hand.
The history of Daulatabad goes back to the sixth century AD,
around the time the Ajanta Caves were built, as seen from the remnants of
ancient Buddhist settlements nearby. The village was then known as Devagiri –
hill of the Gods, and was an important town on the caravan route. With time,
the town grew in importance till it ultimately became the capital of the
Yadavas when they broke away from the Chalukya rule in 1187. The fort remained
in the hands of the Yadava dynasty for more than a century, till the arrival of
Allaudin Khilji in 1296. Khilji captured the fort, but left it in the hands of
the Yadavas as his vassals. However, the city was attacked again by Malik Kafur
in the early 1300s and the last of the Yadavas were slain. The city and fort
then drew the attention of Muhammad-bin-Tughluq who had succeeded Alaudin
Khilji in Delhi. Tughluq was so impressed by the impregnable fort and its
riches that he renamed it Daulatabad – the city of wealth, the name it carries
till today.
Tughluq was so enamoured of his new acquisition that he
ordered the capital to be shifted from Delhi to Daulatabad. Apparently, he
didn't just want the administration shifted. He wanted the entire city to be
moved! On his orders, every man, woman and child were to pack their bags and
set off to reside in the new city. And therein lies the origin of the phrase –
‘Tughlaqui Farman’. Literally, that translates into ‘Tughlaq’s order’, but what
it means is ‘an absurd order’. And yes, the term is justified, because, even
before the capital had shifted completely, Tughluq had realised how unfeasible
it was, and he reversed his original order, forcing people to move back all the
way again! I wonder how many actually moved back, or if some of the population
in the vicinity of Aurangabad and Daulatabad has its roots in a few families
who refused to follow their eccentric ruler!
The passing of Tughluq did not bring peace to Daulatabad. In
1347, the Bahamani Sultans captured the fort and held on to it for another
century. It passed to the Nizam Shahis of Ahmednagar in 1499, who made the city
their capital in1607. The fort was at the centre of many skirmishes with the
Mughals until Shahjahan eventually captured the fort in 1633. Aurangzeb used
the fort as his headquarters for his conquest of Bijapur and Golconda, but the
fort itself continued to face attack from the Marathas. The city passed into
Maratha hands for a brief period, but was soon recaptured by the Mughals. With
the decline of the Mughal Empire, the fort next passed to the Peshwas, but they
could not hold on to it for long either. The fort was eventually captured by
the Nizams of Hyderabad in 1724 AD, and they held on to it till Independence.
The fort has witnessed so many wars that the scars are
apparent. Most of it lies in ruins, with only vestiges of its once-strong
fortifications still standing, but even they inspire such awe in us that we can
only imagine what the fort would have been like, at the height of its glory.
That is long enough for a history lesson on Daulatabad. I
had initially planned to mention it in passing, but it seems to have a life of its
own, and grew completely out of control till I hadn’t the heart to cut it short....
Look out for Part 2 for a photo tour of the fort!


Anu,thanks for reminding the story of Tughluq. Have studied that in school days. Hope you enjoyed your trip .
ReplyDeleteChitra, I didnt remember anything about Tughluq from my history books. Had to read up all over again! and this trip was long back.... just catching up now :D
DeleteI like the place very much.
ReplyDeleteTHanks!
DeleteNice insight on history! Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeletehttp://renuka-mytraveldiary.blogspot.in/2013/01/landscapes.html
THanks Renuka!
Deletenice reading
ReplyDeleteNice narration about the history of the fort. Looking forward to the next detailed post about it.
ReplyDeletewww.rajniranjandas.blogspot.in