The year was 1290 . A crowd had gathered around a clearing, where broken down pillars marked the presence of an ancient temple, now long gone. A young boy, just 14 years old, leaned against one of those pillars, deep in thought. Then, he began speaking, and the crowd fell silent, listening to his every word. He spoke without any notes, translating the Bhagavat Gita, from Sanskrit, which only the pundits knew, to the language everyone in the village knew and spoke – a variety of Prakrit which developed into the Marathi language. Even as he spoke, one of the men in the audience realized how momentous this event was, and how important this composition would be. He began writing down the words the young boy spoke, and this composition was named by its author and composer, the Bhavartha Deepika – the enlightening meaning (of the Bhagavat Gita). Now, the ancient, holy text, was no longer restricted to the pundits, but accessible to all, understood easily by them, composed as it was, in their...
He was someone who threw away a
life of luxury to embrace poverty. How he rose above it all, attained the
kingdom of God, and became a saint, is a long story. But, standing inside the
church named for him, I realise that the church seems to have seen just as many
highs and lows as him… and survived to tell the tale.
I am at the church of St.
Francis of Assisi, at Old Goa, staring up at the magnificent frescoes on the
walls, craning my neck for a better look, marvelling at the fact that these
paintings have lasted as long as they have, wondering what they would have been
like, when the paint was still fresh, and the church filled with the devout.
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| Even the ceilings are painted with such intricate patterns! |
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| A figurine of St. Francis with a painting in the background depicting his death |
The Church of Francis of Assisi
is right opposite the Basilica of Bom Jesus, and most of the tourists come here
to see the archaeological museum maintained by the ASI in the convent which
adjoins this church. Few enter the church itself, probably because it is just
one of the many churches here. But that only makes it a better experience for
me – the church is almost empty, and I can enjoy it in peace.
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| I don't know what else to call it but a balcony.. but look at the detailed work on it! |
Noticing the intricate details on
the frescoes, it is easy to understand why this is one of the churches under the
UNESCO World Heritage Site list. Each of these churches have their own USPs. For
this one, it is the frescoes and the paintings which draw eyes and awe.
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| This beautifully painted panel is mounted on the wall, but with no information about all the details it depicts. Wish I knew more about art. |
Almost every inch of the walls
and ceiling are decorated… either with floral patterns, Christian art, or
telling us the story of Francis of Assisi. After all, it is a story worth the narration.
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| Paintings depicting the life of St. Francis |
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| More paintings on the other side of the altar, depicting St. Francis' life |
Born in 1181/82 to a prosperous
silk merchant, Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone, nicknamed ‘Francesco’ by his
father, lived the life of a wealthy young man, even fighting for his country as
a soldier. A vision brought him back home, and he soon lost his love for
worldly life. Giving up his vast wealth and legacy, he took to begging and
founded the Franciscan order which was authorised by Pope Innocent III. His following
grew, as did his fame, and in 1224, he received the stigmata, (a term used to
describe body marks, sores, or sensations of pain in locations corresponding to
the crucifixion wounds of Jesus Christ, such as the hands, wrists, and feet)
making him the first recorded person to bear the wounds of Christ's Passion. He
died in 1226, and was proclaimed as a saint in 1228. He is known as the patron
saint of animals, the environment, and is one of the two patron saints of Italy.
He is also known for the creation of the Christmas creche or Nativity Scene.
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| An intricate wooden figure of St. Francis, standing on a pedestal, which shows the Stigmata (marks of the Crucifixion of Christ). St. Francis was the first recorded person to bear these marks, and the symbol is regularly used by the Franciscan order. |
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| The archway at the entrance is covered with paintings |
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| As is the underside of the arch! |
Coming back to the church, it was
a group of eight Franciscan friars who arrived in Goa in 1517 and obtained
permission from the Portuguese Governor to build a small chapel. In 1521, they
built a church consecrated to the Holy Ghost, which was later pulled down and
the present church was built on the same spot in 1661.
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| A chapel on one side |
Half a century has passed since
then, and time, and the abandonment of Old Goa has taken its toll. The paintings
are fading (even though they have probably been partly restored), and, unlike
at the Basilica, there is no one here to give us an insight into all these
beautiful works of art and devotion. However, standing under the majestic dome,
feeling small and humble, I can’t help thinking St. Francis would have
approved. After all, he left behind grandeur and wealth for poverty and
suffering, and his memory still endures. As will the church built in his
memory.
This post was originally published on the Club Mahindra Blog. You can read it here.
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What a magnificent Church! I don't think I have ever been to any ancient church.
ReplyDeleteYes, Pradeepa. It is really magnificent!!! and we have a thing for anything ancient... they simply never cease to amaze me!
DeleteI did visit this Church long back with a tourists mental make up. I got insight today. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteyou are welcome, PNS. Goa is so associated with tourism, and so filled with tourists, that it is easy to get carried away with all the crowd, but we were lucky to find this church empty and peaceful, and really enjoyed it.
DeleteI love the murals and art work of this church. Its breathtakingly beautiful. Lovely post, Anu.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Niranjan! Its truly a beautiful church!
DeleteI have been to Goa many times and have visited the church also but never able to appreciate its beauty unless i read your post. Thanks for sharing....
ReplyDeleteKnowing the history and context helps you to enjoy the place more, my learning from your blog.
You are welcome, Rachit. am so glad my blog helps you learn something new :D i am sure the next time you go to Goa, you can enjoy this church as much as i did!
DeleteBeautifully captured, Anu! I can sense the peace, love the details!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Arti!
DeleteAwesome post .i hope everybody will like your post
ReplyDeleteThank you.
DeleteI've been admiring the painting that you indicated has no information whatsoever.. I wish to see it in person,. some time soon. visiting the Church of St. Francis of Assisi is in my bucket list now.
ReplyDeleteI would love to hear what you think of it, Sofia.... its sad that there is no information available. hope you can visit soon!
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